The History of Christmas Cookies

My Daughter Maggie

Historians note that the first cookies were made over 10,000 years ago by Neolithic farmers.  They made a concoction of grains mixed with hot water into a paste and baked them on hot rocks. Light weight, durable, easy to transport and with a good shelf life, they were ideal for the nomads.  Fortunately, we’ve come a long way!

In this article we will look at the history of Christmas cookies, varying traditions by nation and I will share a couple of recipes from one of my favorite cooks, my Mom.

The tradition of Christmas cookie dates back to the 16^th century in medieval Europe.  German families baked pans of Lebkuchen or Gingerbread.  

In Sweden, Papparkaker (spicy ginger and black pepper crackers) is the favorite. 

Krumkake (lemon and cardamom scented wafers) is the choice of the Norwegians.  However, this may be a bit of a challenge in Norway this year.  Unfortunately, they are suffering from a severe butter shortage.  It appears that someone miscalculate the country’s milk supply.  Even though, there’s plenty of Jarlsburg cheese, a traditional and famous Norwegian Swiss style cheese, both (Jarlsburg and butter) are useful items but hardly interchangeable.

The earliest examples of Christmas cookies in the United States were brought by the Dutch in the early 17^th century.  From 1871 to 1906, trade and import was cheap.  That being said, the cookie cutter was introduced in the States from Germany.  Christmas cookies at that point took on a new life. As a matter of fact, in 1907 Nabisco got into the act.  Did you know that Animal Crackers originated as a Christmas tree ornament (that’s what the string on the box is for)? They use 8,000 mile of string each year for their retro boxes.

In the U.S., children have been leaving Christmas cookies and milk for Santa each Christmas eve since the 1930’s. That’s roughly 84,000,000 cookies he’s enjoying that night.  Let’s take a look at the cookies and traditions from other nations.

Christmas Cookies

·       Germany – Gingerbread (Lubkuchen)

      This confection dates back to 1395 in Nuremberg.  The recipe was originally developed during the early days of the spice trade when sugar was expensive and a luxury.  Honey was the sweetener most commonly used.  Until 1867, Lubkuchen were made entirely by hand.

·       Sweden – Gingersnaps (Pepparkaror)

     There is no cookie that says “Christmas in Sweden” more than the traditional Pepparkaror. Place the cookie in the palm of your hand.  Make a wish and tap on the middle of the cookie.  If it breaks into three pieces, your wish will come true!

·       Norway – Fattigmann

     Also known as the poor man’s cookie, this deep fried dough is still enjoyed in parts of northern North America where Scandinavians settled.

·       Norway – Krumkake

      Centuries ago, Krumkake was baked over open flames in decorative cast irons, creating beautiful thin wafers.  They are named after the crumbs left in your hand after taking the first bite.

·       United States – The Sugar Cookie

     Heralding from the Nazareth region of Pennsylvania in the mid 18^th century, the sugar cookie was originally shaped like a keystone to represent the states symbol.  In was introduced into legislation on  September 5, 2001 as the states official cookie.

And now for some favorite holiday recipes from my Mom.  I hope you enjoy the cookies (I always do!) but most importantly, I hope you have an enjoyable holiday with family and friends.

                      

   Raspberry Lemon Thumbprint Cookies

  1/2 Cup                      Raspberry Jam or Jelly

  1   Tablespoon          Chambord or Kirsch

  2 1/4 Cups                All-purpose flour

  1  Teaspoon              Baking powder

  1/4 Teaspoon           Salt

2 Sticks                     Butter at room temperature                                                   

  2/3 Cup                    Sugar

  2  Tablespoon         Large  Egg Yolks

1 Tablespoon          Finely Grated Lemon Zest

  1  Tablespoon         Fresh Lemon Juice

  1  Teaspoon            Vanilla Extract

                       

                               

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly butter 2 large baking sheets.

In a small bowl combine the jam and chambord. Stir to combine.

In a medium bowl combine flour, baking powder and salt and wisk to blend.

In a large bowl using an electric mixer, beat butter and sugar until light. 


Add egg yolks one at a time and beat. 


Add flour mixture and mix well.

Add lemon zest, juice and vanilla and mix.

Roll dough into small balls. Make an indentation in top with your thumb. Spoon small amount of raspberry mixture into the indentation.

Bake until until lightly brown or about 10 minutes.

                      

Macadamia, Cherry & White Chocolate  Cookies

  12   Ounces                 All-purpose flour

  2     Teaspoons           Baking powder

  1/4 Teaspoons           Mace – ground

  4     Ounces                Unsalted butter – softened

  8     Ounces                Granulated sugar

  1     Teaspoons           Vanilla extract

  1                                   Egg

  1     Cup                      Dried Cherries

  1     Cup                      Macadamia nuts

  4    Ounces                White chocolate chunks

  1    Tablespoon         Orange zest

Stir together the flour, baking powder and mace. Set aside.

Cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy.

Blend in the vanilla extract. Add the egg and beat again until fluffy.

Gradually add the flour mixture, beating  just until well combined. 

Add cherries,  nuts, chocolate and orange zest.

Drop on cookie sheet in small mounds.

Bake at 350°F  until golden brown, approximately 12 to 14 minutes. Let stand for 1 minute, then transfer to wire racks to cool.

 Ciao,

Chef Joe

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Sensational Sides

My Daughter Maggie

In this week’s article, we are going to explore some side dishes that are sure to be a big hit at your holiday dinner party. One is an old favorite that has recently reemerged on many menus this season.  The other is a creative twist on a staple of many tables.

You may remember Brussel Sprout as those nasty little “cabbages” that you rolled around on your plate as a kid. At least that was my recollection.  Today, I love them.  


Here are a few interesting fact about this curious vegetable as well as a recipe for preparing them.

• Brussel Sprouts are said to be named after a city in Belgium but few historians believe they originated there. The first written record of them dates back to ancient Rome in 1587. 
• Brussel Sprouts thrive in a cool climate (45-75 degrees) and are said to be sweetest when harvested after a stiff frost.
• The majority of domestic Brussel Sprouts are grown in the coastal areas of central California. This area is ideal because of its fog and cool year round temperature. The domestic harvest is approximately 32,000 tons, valued at $27 million dollars.
• They are a cultivar of the same species that include cabbage, collard greens, broccoli, kale and kohlrabi.
• Varieties include bubble, jade cross, oliver, prince marvel, royal marvel and valiant.
• The Sprout is high in vitamins A & C, folic acid and dietary fiber. They are also an excellent anti oxidant.

Serves Two

 Brussel Sprouts with Bacon & Balsamic                     

10 oz.               Brussel Spouts, blanched and halved

1 Tbl.               Extra Virgin Olive Oil

2 slices            Apple Wood Smoked Bacon, cut into ½”pieces

1 tsp.               Minced Garlic

½ tsp.             Kosher Salt

A Pinch          Freshly Ground Black Pepper

1 tsp.              Granulated Sugar

2 Tbl.             Balsamic Glaze

To blanch the sprouts, bring a pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Trim the stem ends of the sprouts and boil until fork tender. Immediately drain and plunge in ice water to chill them quickly. Drain again.

In a medium sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium high heat. Add the bacon and sauté until 75% cooked. Add the garlic and sauté for 30 seconds.

Add the brussel sprouts, toss well and season with salt, pepper and sugar.  Sauté the sprouts until heated through, approximately 3 – 4 minutes.

Add the balsamic glaze, toss well and transfer to a serving platter. Serve immediately.

Idaho Potato Soufflé 

 The baked potato has been a staple for many years. Here’s a unique twist to this classic, Idaho Potato Soufflé.

Serves 4

                                 

4 large            Idaho Russet Potatoes

1 Tbl.               Roasted Garlic Puree

2 Tbl.              Melted Butter

½ cup            Heavy Cream, heated

¾ tsp.            Kosher Salt

½ tsp.            Ground Black Pepper

4 each            Large Eggs, separated

1 Tbl.              Minced Chives

½ cup            Smoked Gouda Cheese, shredded

2 Tbl.              Parmesan Cheese, shredded

                        Chive Sticks for garnish

Wash the potatoes and pat dry.  Place on a metal baking tray and bake the potatoes in a 400 degree oven until fork tender, approx. 45 – 50 minutes.  Remove and cool slightly.

Cut the top 1/3^rd of the potato off horizontally.  Reserve the tops for plating.

Scoop the meat out of each potato leaving a wall of skin approximately ¼” thick. Mash the potato meat through a ricer or food mill.

Weigh out 1 lb. of the mashed potato and place in a large mixing bowl. Add the roasted garlic puree, butter, cream, salt & pepper, and 4 egg yolks.  Blend well with a wire whip.

Add the chives and both cheeses and mix again until thoroughly incorporated.

In a separate mixing bowl, whip the 4 egg whites with a wire whip to stiff peak stage.

Using a rubber spatula, gently fold the whipped egg whites into the potato mixture.

Fill each of the potato skins with the potato mixture. Place on a metal baking tray and bake in a 375 degree oven for 20 minutes. Place the potatoes on a large serving tray and lean the potato tops against each potato; garnish with chive sticks.  Serve immediately.

 Ciao,

Chef Joe

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‘Tis the season……… Stone Crab season, that is.

My Daughter Maggie

Being a long time Floridian, I would be remiss if I didn’t pay tribute to the beautiful natural resource that has just become   available and is at the peak of the season. 

In this post we will explore the history and lore   of Stone Crabs, along with a few fun facts and my absolute favorite way to prepare them.

Now for a bit of Stone Crab history…………..

Meet “Everglades icon”, Loren G. “Totch” Brown.  Totch was born on March 12, 1920.  He lived his entire life in the area known as the Ten Thousand Islands.  Totch survived off what the Everglades had to offer as a commercial fisherman and gator hunter.

On a spring day in the late 1930’s Totch had an epiphany.  Tired of having his fishing nets tangled and ruined by these numerous, strange looking crabs, he decided to keep one.  He cooked it, ate it, and a new commercial industry was born.

He quickly met with his uncle, “Dollar” Bill, who was always scheming of ways to make a quick buck. In a matter of minutes they devised a plan. The two worked diligently and quickly building several hundred wooden crab traps.  They set out on the water and their first haul resulted in many large burlap sacks full of Stone crabs.

“Dollar” Bill loaded the sacks into his truck and headed east.  His destination: a lunch counter in Miami Beach where he met with the owner, a gentleman named Joe Weiss.  Mr. Weiss purchased the crabs for forty cents a pound and put them on his menu.  That restaurant today is known as Joe’s Stone Crab, which is still “the” place to go for stone crabs.

Fun facts about Stone Crabs……..

• Stone Crabs have two distinctly different claws. A large one known as the crusher claw and a smaller one known as the pincher claws. The crusher claw is the only one allowed to legally be harvested.

• Legal minimum size for a claw is 2 ½” in length, measured from the first joint. The smallest legal claw weighs about 2 ½ ounces.  The largest claw harvested on record weighed 25 pounds. Now that calls for a celebration!

• Once the claw is removed, the crab is returned to the water. It will grow a new legal size claw in approximately 12 to 14 months.

• To prevent the meat from sticking to the shell, claws are cooked as quickly as possible, usually right on the boat.  Meat will also stick to the shell if the claw is improperly frozen. Make sure you are purchasing claws from a reputable seafood market to ensure you receive the best quality claws possible.
• 
  

Stone Crab Crusher Claws

How to crack a Stone Crab Claw:

1)  Hold the claw in the palm of your hand.  Using the back of a pasta spoon, sharply hit the center of the claw.  This will cause the shell to crack.  Remember, we are cracking claws not smashing them. Turn the claw over and repeat.

2) Now, rotate the claw in the palm of your hand so as the first and second knuckle drape over your index finger.  Again with the back of the spoon, crack the first and second knuckle, of the claw, not your finger.

Preparation:

The best way to prepare these beauties is a simply as possible.  I prefer ice-cold cracked claws served on a platter over crushed ice, garnished with a few strands of blanched seaweed. The sauce of choice, and tradition, is mustard sauce. 

Here’s a recipe for mustard sauce that was made famous by Joe’s Stone Crab.

Mustard Sauce (Yields: 4 ¾ cups)

Mayonnaise                       3 cups

Dijon Mustard                  1 ¾ cups

English Dry Mustard       1 Tbl.

Fresh Lemon Juice          2 Tbl.

In a small mixing bowl, combine the dry mustard and lemon juice; blend with a wire whip until smooth. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and allow the mustard to “bloom” for 20 minutes. Add the Dijon mustard and mayonnaise and again, blend well with a wire whip.  Store refrigerated until ready for use.

The season only lasts until May 15^th so get crackin’.  Let me know how they come out or invite me to dinner!

 Ciao,

Chef Joe

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The World is Your Oyster.....

My Daughter Maggie

It’s that time of year when costal water temperatures drop and the Gulf of Mexico yields one of its finest resources, oysters. In this article we’ll explore the nuances of these delicious creatures, some more fun facts and a recipe that has been a family tradition for many, many years.

And now……….Gulf Oysters 101

Oysters require a subtle flow of fresh water for their development and maturity.  This fact makes the Gulf of Mexico a prime breeding ground for oysters.  With the many tributaries that flow into this vast body of water, oyster reefs are constantly bathed with fresh water.

 The Gulf of Mexico is the largest producer of oysters in the world.  In fact, 42% of the oysters harvest in the United States comes from the coastal shores of Louisiana, approximately 250 million pounds (in shell) each year.  Other states that largely contribute to the Gulf harvest are Texas and Florida.

Gulf oysters (crassostrea virginica) are intersexual. This means, the start their life as males. After one season (approx. 10 months) they change sex and become females. The female lays eggs over the oyster reef and the male then inseminates the eggs. Within fourteen days, they eggs become “spat” and attach to a shell and life begins. It takes approximately 12 months for the oysters to reach the legal harvest size of 3” in length.

The location of the oyster bed determines the flavor of the oyster. This is due to the water quality of that area. In the Gulf there are many prominent harvesting areas. These include Breton Sound (Louisiana), Apalachicola (Florida) and Pepper Grove (Galveston Bay, TX). Each has a wonderful, but distinctly different flavor. In general, these oysters are sweeter with a softer texture to their Northern counterparts.

 Born and raised in Annapolis, Maryland, I began eating oysters at a very early age. At that time I was partial to Chincoteague oysters from the Chesapeake Bay. Now I find my favorite to be Gulf oysters, especially those from Apalachicola Bay in Florida. 

Every Thanksgiving, we celebrate with one of my favorite family traditions.  My stepfather, Jim, would start off the feast with his broiled oysters.  We call the “Oysters Jim” and even after his passing, the tradition still continues.  When you try them, you’ll understand why.  Enjoy the Oysters Jim; it could be a nice start to your holiday.

 Oysters Jim

                                                           

12 ea.             Apalachicola Bay Oysters, 
                       freshly shucked on the half shell

¾ cup          Unsalted Butter, melted

 1 tbsp           Old Bay Seafood Seasoning

2 slices         Hickory Smoked Bacon

12 pieces      Sharp Cheddar Cheese, 1/8” thick and 1” by 1”
                       squares

Pre heat the oven to 375 degrees

Place the bacon on a metal baking tray and par cook in the oven until 75% done, approx. 4-5 minutes. Remove, cool slightly and cut into 3/4” pieces.

Next, arrange your oven rack so as it’s in the top third of the oven. Set the oven to broil.

Place the oyster on the half shell on a metal baking tray. Drizzle the melted butter over the oysters and sprinkle with Old Bay Seafood Seasoning.

Top each oyster with a piece of cheddar cheese. Place a piece of par-cooked bacon on top of the cheese.

Place the tray on the oven shelf near the top broiler. Cook until the cheese has melted and the bacon becomes crisp.  Serve immediately.

 Ciao,

Chef Joe

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Flavors of Fall – Part 2

The art of braising meat…………..Boeuf Bourguignon

My daughter Maggie

As I wrote in my last post, fall screams of braised meats and stews.  In this publication we will explore the art of braising meats, its history and how is applies to a true, French culinary classic, Boeuf Bourguignon.  For longer than anyone knows, mankind has been tenderizing tougher cuts of meat by cooking them in a flavored liquid. Braising, as defined by Larousse Gastronomique states, “a method of cooking in an airtight container with very little liquid”.

It’s rumored that in the late 1880’s Augusta Escoffier perfected the art of braising. Here are a couple of critical points defined in the process.

    Searing – Searing is the process of cooking meat, at a high temperature in a small amount of fat, oil or butter.  The meat is cooked on one side and when slightly browned, turned to the other side.  This process is repeated until all surfaces on the meat are lightly caramelized. It is very important that the meat be well seared prior to braising. Searing seals the outer surface of the meat and locks the natural juices inside. It also creates fond on the bottom of the pan. Fond is bits and pieces of caramelized meat and vegetables.  It is very flavorful and needs to be incorporated into the finished sauce.

    Deglazing with Liquid – As stated in the definition above, braising uses a small amount of a flavored liquid in the cooking process (wine/stock).  Too much liquid and you are actually boiling the meat. Deglazing is the process of adding a small amount of liquid to a pan and scraping all fond from the bottom of the pan.

   Temperature Control – When braising we want to control the temperature so we don’t actually boil the meat, we simmer it.  This is most easily achieved by using the oven rather that an open flame on the stove top.

Now, let’s put our new found knowledge to use by preparing this classic French dish from Burgundy. Let me know how it turns out!

 Boeuf Bourguignon - Serves 4

1 ¾ lbs.        Beef Shoulder Roast, diced 1-1 ½”          

3 slices         Bacon, cut ½” wide

3 Tbl.            Butter, divided
1 cup             Cremini Mushrooms, sliced ¼” thick
1 cup             Cippolini Onions, blanched,  peeled &        
                        halved

                      Kosher Salt as needed 
                      Fresh Ground Black  Pepper as needed

3 Tbl.            All Purpose Flour

1 cup            Burgundy

2 cups          Beef Consommé, canned

1 Tbl.            Tomato Paste

¼ cup          Demi Glace

3 sprigs        Fresh Thyme

3 sprigs        Fresh Sage

1 Tbl.            Butter

12 oz. (w)    Blanched Egg Noodles

3 Tbl.           Butter

¼ cup          Italian Parsley, chopped

1) In a Dutch oven, set over medium high heat on the stove, render the bacon until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and reserve. Add 1 ½ tablespoons of butter, melt and sauté the mushrooms and onions until lightly caramelized, approx. 2-3 minutes. Again, remove with a slotted spoon and reserve.

2) Add 1 ½ tablespoons of butter, melt and turn the heat to high. Add the diced beef, season with kosher salt and black pepper and sear on all sides.

3) Add the flour to the meat and stir until the meat is well coated. Once coated, deglaze the pan with wine and scrape all the fond from the bottom of the pan.

4) Add the beef consommé, demi glace and tomato paste. Blend well and bring to a boil. Immediately, turn off the heat, add the herbs, cover with a lid and place in a 350 degree oven. Bake the dish for 1 ½ hours.

5) Remove from the oven, remove the herbs and add 1 tablespoon of butter as well as the reserved mushrooms, onions and bacon.  Stir until the butter has melted and is incorporated into the sauce. Check the seasoning and add more salt and pepper as desired.

6) In a large sauté pan, heat 3 tablespoons of butter. Add the noodles and parsley and toss well until the noodles are hot, approx. 2-3 minutes.

7) Place the pasta on a large serving bowl. Pour the braised beef, mushrooms, onions, bacon and sauce over the pasta. Serve immediately. 

 Ciao,

Chef Joe

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